rigidbot core xy

SummaryUpdate Dec 2019: If considering this conversion, wait for the v2 which uses premium Gates idlers, pulleys and belt resulting in better dimensional accuracy.Update Mar 2020: The v2 has been published and can also be used with stock steel rods.A stock Rigidbot is a sturdy machine overall and can produce quite nice prints. My goal of this conversion was to have a stationary bed, and be able to enclose the printer while relocating motors and electronics outside. End goal is to heat up enclosure up to 70C for best ABS part strength.This conversion is inspired by Hypercube and HEVO 3d printers. Rigidbot has most necessary components for XY conversion. The bed needs some improvising.There will be two versions of this conversion:v1 - use as many stock components as possible (steel X rods and linear bearings)v2 - upgrade to lighter X carriage (carbon rods and bushings)Be sure to watch the videos by Tech2C. It will help understand the functionality and limitations of corexy system, and also aid in tuning the printer for best performance. CoreXY is a bit fiddly in comparison, but capable of high acceleration and jerk and hence high print speed.DesignThe parts were designed in Rhino 3d. The CAD file is provided.BedI used 1/4" MDF for bed base. Other options are 2020 extrusion like Hypercube, or even a slotted angle. Eventually, I will migrate to using a 3mm aluminum plate. It is difficult to drill accurate holes in MDF using hand tools. The stl files for MDF base are included.Additional Material neededTwo identical stepper motors (buy another Y stepper)4 - LM8UU linear bearings for Z rods6 - GT2 20T toothed idlers with 3mm ID4 - GT2 20T smooth idlers with 3mm ID1 - 5m GT2 beltE3D hotendBowden tube with couplers40mm blower fanM3 assorted screw set, in size 6mm to 35mmM4 screws 15mm and 10mmAssembly instructionsPrint Rigidbot nut retainers and Allen Key screwdriver for 2 or 2.5mm key depending on your screws.Flip the frame upside down. Swap the Z rod holders, so that Z mot