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Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus E3D V6 Effector
di Old-Steve
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I made the connecting rod mounting points longer so I don't have to use the copper spacers anymore.
They are 52mm wide without spacers.
I added a small round brim under each mounting point to help minimize warping. Trim away post print.
I added a nut pocket so I can use a 3mm X 20mm bolt with a nut and with the rod end installed, the bolt will just reach the nut.
I have noticed with repeated assembly and disassembly that the mounting hole for the E3D will start to get a little loose, so I added 3 screw holes pointing in towards the center, to help lock down the E3D.
The top collar does a pretty good job of holding it secure, but it is better with the 3 screws. Just don't over tighten them, snug is enough.
The top collar - will take (2) 3mm x 15-20mm screws and nuts. 20's will work but 15's look a little better.
I have 2 square holes on each side. You can either pass wires through the holes, or use the holes as anchor points for wire ties, or use my little wire clips.
They are 52mm wide without spacers.
I added a small round brim under each mounting point to help minimize warping. Trim away post print.
I added a nut pocket so I can use a 3mm X 20mm bolt with a nut and with the rod end installed, the bolt will just reach the nut.
I have noticed with repeated assembly and disassembly that the mounting hole for the E3D will start to get a little loose, so I added 3 screw holes pointing in towards the center, to help lock down the E3D.
The top collar does a pretty good job of holding it secure, but it is better with the 3 screws. Just don't over tighten them, snug is enough.
The top collar - will take (2) 3mm x 15-20mm screws and nuts. 20's will work but 15's look a little better.
I have 2 square holes on each side. You can either pass wires through the holes, or use the holes as anchor points for wire ties, or use my little wire clips.
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