Thingiverse
Creality Ender-2 Base Plate
von lewtwo
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Revised 8 April 2018
My problem with the “Y” AXIS turned out to be the location of the “Y” end stop sensor switch. I had it in the top slot of the “Y” AXIS extrusion. It belongs in the bottom slot. It is the back wheel of the carriage that is supposed to trigger the micro-switch. This is a complete rework. My mistake, my ignorance, my apologies.
Moving on ....
I still want to put a larger base on the bottom because my printer sits on top of four vibration
dampening pads to reduce the noise (around 25 db at this point) and is just a bit tipsy when I hang a full spool of filament. In working on this project I managed to strip the socket of one of the 5mm button head mounting screws. In order to remove that screw I had to totally disassemble the entire printer down to the bare acrylic base plate. The add on board will also allow enough thickness to replace the 5mm button head screws with proper 5mm x 10mm long socket head cap screws. It should be obvious but never assume: the two
My problem with the “Y” AXIS turned out to be the location of the “Y” end stop sensor switch. I had it in the top slot of the “Y” AXIS extrusion. It belongs in the bottom slot. It is the back wheel of the carriage that is supposed to trigger the micro-switch. This is a complete rework. My mistake, my ignorance, my apologies.
Moving on ....
I still want to put a larger base on the bottom because my printer sits on top of four vibration
dampening pads to reduce the noise (around 25 db at this point) and is just a bit tipsy when I hang a full spool of filament. In working on this project I managed to strip the socket of one of the 5mm button head mounting screws. In order to remove that screw I had to totally disassemble the entire printer down to the bare acrylic base plate. The add on board will also allow enough thickness to replace the 5mm button head screws with proper 5mm x 10mm long socket head cap screws. It should be obvious but never assume: the two
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