Creality K2 Pro Simple Riser v1.2

Got a K2 Pro and you don't like that PTFE tube happily scratching a weird trapezoid into the glass top's bottom coating every time the XY-axis move? Understandable. This basic vented riser lifts the entire glass top and gives your PTFE tube a bit of breathing room.Before You Print (IMPORTANT):• Super tight tolerances here, especially for the double-dovetail dowels (is this even the right way to call them? Idk English is not my first language). To make sure everything fits like a glove, you MUST let the printer do its Calibration before every single print in this project. For all four plates. I left enough space to the sides specifically for that.• Material: I used Flashforge ASA. You could also use PETG, but only if you're 100% sure your chamber temps won't get into the range where it starts getting soft. I don't know if ABS would be good as the pieces are looong and would probably warp. Budget about ~450g for the whole thing, it's a chonker but it's solid. Do weight reduction at your own risk if you want.• The project file has the correct settings baked in if you're printing with a K2 Pro and using Creality Print 6.3 and upwards. Don't touch anything unless you're sure you're making improvements. Supports for the critical overhangs are already placed. If you want to lower the speeds that's no problem, and of course set your material settings correctly.• Heat-soak the bed! Get it to your material's required temp (100° for my ASA) and let it sit for 10-15 minutes with the chamber closedbefore starting the print. Even better if you let the whole chamber reach 50-55° if you're using ASA/ABS.Assembly:• Slide the sliders in their tracks (it's foolproof and they're all the same) and move them back and forth to wear them in a little before closing everything up. It makes a noticeable difference in how easily the vents open afterwards.• Looking at the underside, match triangles with triangles and circles with circles. The riser is not squared, it's 10mm longer in the Y axis