Ender7 Z-fix
di bofred
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The Ender 7 is an amazing printer with its flaws.
Z motion is crap due to the plastic wheels and upside down turned anti back lash screw.
This is a rebuild of the Z motion with cheap linear bearings. Super sturdy.
A router that is able to cut aluminum is needed.
Parts:
- Take off and turn the back lash nut 180 degree and reuse it on the screw
- 2 x 400 mm MGN12 linear bearings (cheap on amazon for example)
- 1 x high quality micro switch with the steel pivot still in place for higher accuracy
- A lot of M3 x 8 for the linear rods and its T-slots
- 6 x M3 10 or 12 for the ange to the base connection (manual tapped)
- 6 x M3 x 8 for the original ender print bed bracket
- 2 x Angles in 5 mm aluminum
- 1 x Base in 5 mm aluminum
- 1 x M3 x 20 to 25 mm with a nut for the Z-leveling micro switch
Assemble:
- Align one of the linear rods and measure it to be as strait at is possible could be
- Fasten the screws tightly
- Mount the base and the second linear rod with l
Z motion is crap due to the plastic wheels and upside down turned anti back lash screw.
This is a rebuild of the Z motion with cheap linear bearings. Super sturdy.
A router that is able to cut aluminum is needed.
Parts:
- Take off and turn the back lash nut 180 degree and reuse it on the screw
- 2 x 400 mm MGN12 linear bearings (cheap on amazon for example)
- 1 x high quality micro switch with the steel pivot still in place for higher accuracy
- A lot of M3 x 8 for the linear rods and its T-slots
- 6 x M3 10 or 12 for the ange to the base connection (manual tapped)
- 6 x M3 x 8 for the original ender print bed bracket
- 2 x Angles in 5 mm aluminum
- 1 x Base in 5 mm aluminum
- 1 x M3 x 20 to 25 mm with a nut for the Z-leveling micro switch
Assemble:
- Align one of the linear rods and measure it to be as strait at is possible could be
- Fasten the screws tightly
- Mount the base and the second linear rod with l
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