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Peristaltic pump with interchangeable tubes.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrjjtMTukPI
The pump is designed and tested with 3/18 inches outer diameter silicone tubes. The encoder I used is called "acz11", 20mm Height 6mm diameter shaft version. Motor is "TFK-280SA-22125" motor. Arduino circuit is just a simple RC filter suggested by the encoder pdf (use 0.1uF capacitor instead of the 0.01uF one) and a L239D H bridge. I used arduino nano and a HC-06 bluetooth module. I powered everything with a 9v battery.
Lube any part with synthetic PTFE oil that you think might need lubing.
If you are printing bolts, print in multiples and use z hop in tight clusters to prevent overheating and knocking
All prints have been compensated for the elephant foot effect. No filing needed.
If you somehow have my old reduction gear, nothing is reusable. They have been modified
Use 100% infill for the bolts. They are the weakest link. Use less infill for other parts if you so desire. Just make sure you have a thick wall (3 minimal)
I used 0
The pump is designed and tested with 3/18 inches outer diameter silicone tubes. The encoder I used is called "acz11", 20mm Height 6mm diameter shaft version. Motor is "TFK-280SA-22125" motor. Arduino circuit is just a simple RC filter suggested by the encoder pdf (use 0.1uF capacitor instead of the 0.01uF one) and a L239D H bridge. I used arduino nano and a HC-06 bluetooth module. I powered everything with a 9v battery.
Lube any part with synthetic PTFE oil that you think might need lubing.
If you are printing bolts, print in multiples and use z hop in tight clusters to prevent overheating and knocking
All prints have been compensated for the elephant foot effect. No filing needed.
If you somehow have my old reduction gear, nothing is reusable. They have been modified
Use 100% infill for the bolts. They are the weakest link. Use less infill for other parts if you so desire. Just make sure you have a thick wall (3 minimal)
I used 0
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