Thingiverse
Morse key
por lischeck
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Morse key new.
This thing describes a Morse key as used by radio amateurs, for example. It combines the function of two earlier things that I have since deleted. In addition, the electrical structure has been simplified here. Instead of the contacts made of screws, a miniature limit switch was used, as is also used in 3D printers.
The "ears" on the corners of some parts are for better adhesion to the print bed and can easily be broken off after printing.
The holes are only printed from the second layer because they don't stick well to the print bed on my printer. Because they are only 0.3mm thick, they can easily be pierced after printing.
The caps of the M3 knurled screws must be glued to the "thumb screw base" after the screws and nuts have been installed. I glue PLA with super glue.
M3 nuts are countersunk in some parts. These are the parts "knob", "base", "lever" and, if applicable, the "strain relief". Please stop printing just before ending the cavity for the nuts (e.g.
This thing describes a Morse key as used by radio amateurs, for example. It combines the function of two earlier things that I have since deleted. In addition, the electrical structure has been simplified here. Instead of the contacts made of screws, a miniature limit switch was used, as is also used in 3D printers.
The "ears" on the corners of some parts are for better adhesion to the print bed and can easily be broken off after printing.
The holes are only printed from the second layer because they don't stick well to the print bed on my printer. Because they are only 0.3mm thick, they can easily be pierced after printing.
The caps of the M3 knurled screws must be glued to the "thumb screw base" after the screws and nuts have been installed. I glue PLA with super glue.
M3 nuts are countersunk in some parts. These are the parts "knob", "base", "lever" and, if applicable, the "strain relief". Please stop printing just before ending the cavity for the nuts (e.g.
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