Phanteks Shift Base
door susop
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Update 2:
I changed the fin count to match the original design. I also added cylindrical cavities in both the alignment studs, as well as the studs to force my slicer to add beef-up walls through the center for increased strength. I also made numerous miscellaneous improvements for both durability and ease of cleanup. I printed the version without studs and used metal studs I bought elsewhere. For your reference, the stock retention ball diameter is about 5.3mm.
Update 1:
I thickened the bases of the retention stud screw-in locations to prevent breakaway, lengthened the alignment studs by 1mm to ensure better engagement, lengthened the fan shroud by .5mm for tighter clearance, and added filter retention tabs. I recommend only using the version without studs, but if with-studs works for you, go for it. For best results, print with the fins down.
Original Post:
When I purchased my Phanteks Shift case, I, like many others, noticed there were many problems caused by poor air
I changed the fin count to match the original design. I also added cylindrical cavities in both the alignment studs, as well as the studs to force my slicer to add beef-up walls through the center for increased strength. I also made numerous miscellaneous improvements for both durability and ease of cleanup. I printed the version without studs and used metal studs I bought elsewhere. For your reference, the stock retention ball diameter is about 5.3mm.
Update 1:
I thickened the bases of the retention stud screw-in locations to prevent breakaway, lengthened the alignment studs by 1mm to ensure better engagement, lengthened the fan shroud by .5mm for tighter clearance, and added filter retention tabs. I recommend only using the version without studs, but if with-studs works for you, go for it. For best results, print with the fins down.
Original Post:
When I purchased my Phanteks Shift case, I, like many others, noticed there were many problems caused by poor air
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